Most people know that “vintage” means the year that most, or all the grapes that went into a bottle of wine were harvested. However, a “vintage year,” means something else entirely. A “vintage year,” is a phrase used to describe the exceptional quality of wines produced in a particular year, usually as a result of a great growing season. And in spite of some unexpected weather, 2010 is definitely shaping up to be a “vintage year” for First Crush!

All of the fruit picked by the discerning hands of our First Crush harvesters (including Malbec, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah), looks absolutely fantastic. In a year filled with fruit ripening a bit behind schedule, First Crush had the advantage of working with many different local growers, so we could pick what varietal and what vineyard we wanted to harvest from for each of our Harvest Weekends. This helped ensure that our 2010 First Crush wines were made from some of the best fruit that Paso had to offer.

Thanks to the extra care taken by our First Crush harvesters, all of the fruit we picked came in from the vineyards in beautiful condition: bins filled with big, full clusters, and barely in need of sorting. The fruit also came in with perfect numbers (the sugar levels were right where we wanted them), and after fermenting away, most of the varietals are now ready to be pressed and put into barrels.

With the help of our winemaker, Steve Kroener, and those of you who choose to come back during our monthly winemaking workshops, the 2010 vintage will yield some incredible wines for you to share and enjoy with your friends and family for many more “vintage years” to come.

by Becky Zelinski

There’s much ado about a late harvest around Paso these days. It has been a relatively cool summer, which has most growers and winemakers watching, waiting and wondering how this year will turn out. Many people are even pontificating how we’ll still be picking grapes while passing the turkey.

While there may be a hint of truth to that turkey tale, we here at First Crush have a more pragmatic view of what lies in store.  First Crush viticulturist, Lowell Zelinski, Ph.D. took the proverbial vine by the cluster.  He’s been scouting the vineyards, collecting veraison information and comparing it to last year.

“Overall, I don’t think we’re too far behind where we were last year,” Zelinski said. “My information shows that many vineyards are at 80-90% of where they were last year and I even have some that are slightly ahead.”

However, Zelinski added that some are behind, which leads him to believe that there’s more than just something in the weather influencing grape ripening.

In the third week of August, Zelinski’s data shows that Syrah – in the Templeton Hills Vineyard (aka Victor Hugo Winery) in the Templeton Gap region – is at 90% veraison compared to 80% last year. In the same vineyard, the Petite Syrah is also ahead by 10%, the Cabernet Sauvignon is the same, but the Zinfandel is slightly behind.

A little further to the north just off of Highway 46 East at the Mitchella Vineyard, Syrah is at 60% where it was at 75% veraison last year but the Cabernet Sauvignon is at 70% where it was only at 60% last year. Ironically (or confusingly), this is generally a much warmer spot in Paso Robles, and yes, we have the temperature sensors and the weather data to prove it.

To further complicate matters, in the Oak Shadow Vineyard (a little further to the east of Mitchella), the Cabernet Sauvignon is way ahead of last year at 90% (2010) to 70% (2009).  However, the Cabernet Franc at Oak Shadow is only at 10% veraison where it was at 50% last year and the Merlot is the same as last year at 50%.

Are you beginning to see a (weather) pattern here? Well, we do not.  It appears that the varietal has more to do with the ripening stage than the weather or location.

And for those of you who are still reading and really interested…according to Dr. Zelinski, it appears that it’s the number of days from bud break, not the number of degree days* that affects the ripening rate.

So will the 2010 vintage be delayed? Only time and the fruit will really tell.  However, for now it looks as though some varieties may be harvested a little later than last year but the turkey tale is really much ado about nothing.

 (*Degree days are a measure of how much heat has accumulated for the growth of the plant.  Zelinski said there’s a difference in vegetative versus fruit growth, and it appears that the vegetative growth is more influenced by degree days than the fruit.  In other words…if it’s cold, you may have shorter shoots but the fruit ripens at the same rate.)

From: calizawinery.com

Carl Bowker, a relative newcomer to the world of winemaking, has followed a long yet
steady path towards his goal of producing special wines. Born and raised in Hawaii, Carl
began his farming experience while tagging along with his father, an irrigation specialist to
the local farms. This early introduction left a lasting impression and true appreciation for
soils and the farming life. Little did he realize that this childhood curiosity would lead him to
the special soils of Paso Robles, California.

Upon graduating from the University of Hawaii, Carl left for California to join the corporate
world. His entrepreneurial spirit took flight soon after when started his own company and
later, other ventures. After several decades he decided that a desk job was not for him and
he began the pursuit of his passion for special wines.

Carl’s affection for wine turned into an obsession shortly after September 11, 2001 during a
visit to Europe. It was there that he expanded his appreciation for world class wines and for
what the land could produce. While there, Carl and his wife Pam got to spend time with
many of the regions’ finest wine producing families. He attentively listened to the details of
wine production and noticed the special connection the families had with their land. From
this experience, Carl vowed that he would make this the way of living life for himself and his
family.

Upon returning from Europe, the search to locate a vineyard property to grow superior wine
grapes ensued. As with many pioneers before them, they chose Paso Robles, California due
to its soils, microclimates, and upside potential for growing world-class grape varietals from
the Rhone Valley region of France.

With his desire to become a winemaker and viticulturist Carl attended Napa Valley College’s
Viticulture and Enology associate program and completed it in 2004.
With all things moving toward the vision of producing special wines, Carl and Pam ventured
to the Rhone Valley of France. It was there that the die was cast. It was to be old world wine
in the new world that he would make. Deep, opulent and complex Syrah of the Northern
Rhone, Grenache-based blends of Chateauneuf-du-Pape and Viognier-based white wines
were what would be produced at the family’s Caliza Winery in Paso Robles.
In 2005 the quest ended and the vision began when Carl and Pam planted their 20 acre
hillside vineyard. Located on Anderson Road in the famed Templeton Gap on the Westside
of Paso Robles, the warm days are met with the cooling evening influences of the coastal
marine breezes.

The Bowkers, with their new vineyard, found themselves in the company of cutting edge
winemakers and their respective vineyards. A stone’s throw to the Northwest is the highly
respected Stephan Asseo’s L’Aventure Winery, to the East is Booker Vineyards whose fruit
is used in many fine wines such as Saxum, Villa Creek and Booker Vineyard’s own label.
The name Caliza came from a desire to link the winery to its surroundings. After days of
suggestions, a brief search yielded the Spanish word for limestone. Being that Caliza lies on
a thin band of limestone running along the Santa Lucia mountain range, it was a natural
choice.

By:  Becky Zelinski

Traditionally, most red wines were blended - and even some whites. The French began this tradition, and most blends from around the world are still defined by the French wine producing regions from when they came. It was American winemakers who paved the way for single varietal prestige, but even they are beginning to blend again.

Today, the reasons for blending and the varietals blended are as varied as the wines themselves. Wines from Graves and Medoc in Bordeaux contain some combination of the five Bordeaux varietals. In the Rhone region, wines may contain up to 13 varieties. The reds from Rioja are all blended.

It has only been within the most recent generation of winemaking that varietal wines became popular. The trend began in the U.S. after prohibition. At that time, few American wine producing districts were popular so they used the French wines names such as Chablis and Burgundy to gain prestige.

But it was California who perfected this change.  The Golden State had an excellent climate to produce wine grapes, but at that time were typically producing cheaper wines.   As California’s wines became better and more popular, winemakers sought to distinguish their wines from French wines by using varietal grape names. Thus, the practice of producing single varietal wines rose to prestige in California, and the rest, as we say “is history.”

Today, the trend is reversing and we’re seeing more and more “blends” back on the shelves.  But a lot of the blends aren’t the typical French-style blends.  In Paso Robles, winemakers tend to produce what I like to call “unique blends.”  It’s not uncommon to see a Cab/Syrah (Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah), or a blend of three or more distinct varietals.

So why do winemakers blend their wines?

The reasons vary and include everything from expressing a unique style to masking a bad wine. But the primary goals of a good blending program are to:

1. Make a wine that is better balanced or more attractive than individual ingredients.
2. To repeat -a standard wine that is reasonable constant in character and quality.
3. To make a wine at lower cost than otherwise possible.
4. To make a new type of wine.

With First Crush, you get to be a winemaker and blend your own wine.  Whether you’re interested in learning about wine, making your own wine or just blending for fun, our Blending Workshops take you beyond the tasting room and into the wide-wide, wonderful world of wine!

Trivia Question:

Who introduced the idea of labeling wines with varietal names?

Frank Schoonmaker (in collaboration with Alexis Lichine) urged California winemakers to label California wines using varietal grape names.

Frank Musselman Schoonmaker was a travel writer and wine writer, wine importer, and the author of the Complete Wine Book (1934). He later wrote the classic Frank Schoonmaker’s Encyclopedia of Wine. He frequently worked with Alexis Lichine (another wine writer), and the two were considered two of the most influential wine writers in the U.S. for many years.

Schoonmaker consulted for California wineries such as Wente and Almaden. Around 1940, he began promoting the practice of using varietal names on wine labels (such as Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon), but the practice didn’t become widely used until the late 1960’s. Schoonmaker touted that “the  more specific the name, the better the wine.” Robert Mondavi was one of the first to use varietal names on most of his wine labels and also promoted the practice.

Interestingly, the 2007 Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon, on sale today contains: 77% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Syrah, 4% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petite Sirah, 1% Sangiovese, and comes from five appellations: 50% Monterey County, 41% San Luis Obispo County, 5% Madera, 3% San Benito County, 1% North Coast.

The First Crush 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon is 100% Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon.